This little crocheted baby doll has been in my head for ages! I kept looking and looking for a pattern online, but google searches of “crochet baby doll pattern” didn’t turn up what I had in mind – so I finally decided it was time to make my first-ever crochet pattern. And I’m glad I did, because I love how this little doll turned out!
I made this doll for Anna. I love crocheted softies as baby toys – they are washable, soft, and a great texture for littles to explore. Of course, the other three kids were eying her as well, and I (not surprisingly) have requests for three more.
They may get their wish, eventually, but in the meantime This wee girl is off adventuring in search of a name:
Crochet Baby Doll Pattern
I contemplated selling this pattern, but decided I would rather have the doll enjoyed by more children. Please do not copy and paste these instructions to sell, or post anywhere else – online or via email. Share the link to this post instead. You are welcome to sell dolls made with this pattern, provided you link to this tutorial in the listing. I am calling this a baby doll crochet pattern, but as a former chemo patient myself, I think she would make a great doll for a child undergoing chemo treatment – and I would love to see dolls made using this pattern donated to pediatric oncology units! I would also love to see photos if you make this doll – you can email pictures (or links to pictures) to mamasmilesblog at gmail dot com with “crochet doll” in the subject line.
This video provides a good demonstration of how to make a triple double crochet bobble stitch. I also like this illustration of a bobble made using five double crochets from Red Heart yarn.
Abbreviations used in the pattern:
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
inc = 2 single crochets in a single stitch (increase)
invdec = invisible decrease
This doll was made using a size E crochet hook and worsted weight Peaches & Cream yarn. I used their cream color yarn. Dark taupe and ecru are other nice skin tone like colors from this brand. You should be able to make the entire doll using a fairly small skein of yarn; I used an enormous skein and so can’t tell you exactly how much I used. Most amigurumi crochet patterns call for acrylic yarn; I prefer the feel of cotton and so use Peaches & Cream even though it is a little harder to work with.
Doll Crochet Pattern:
Doll Ears (make 2)
make a magic ring
sc 3 in magic ring (3 stitches)
Fasten off, and pull magic ring tight. Leave a long thread for attaching to head.
Doll Head and Body
make a magic ring
R1: sc 5 in magic ring (5 stitches)
R2: inc in each stitch (10 stitches)
R3: (sc 1, inc) x5 (15 stitches)
R4: (inc, 1sc, 1sc) x5 (20 stitches)
R5: (1sc, 1sc, 1sc, inc) x5 (25 stitches)
R6: (1sc, 1sc, inc, 1sc, 1sc) x5 (30 stitches)
R7: (inc, 1sc in next 5 stitches) x5 (35 stitches)
R8-11: sc all the way around (35 stitches)
R12: 1 sc in first 10 stitches, invdec in next 2 stitches, 1sc in next 3 stitches, invdec in next 2 stitches, sc in final 14 stitches (31 stitches)
The invdec stitches above create the eye sockets.
R13: sc in first 9 stitches, inc in next three stitches, sc in next stitch, make a three double crochet bobble stitch, sc in next stitch, inc in next three stitches, sc in final 13 stitches (37 stitches)
The bobble stitch is your doll’s nose.
R14: sc all the way around (37 stitches)
R15: sc 1, invdec 1, sc5, invdec 1, sc6, invdec 1, sc6, invdec 1, sc5, invdec 1, sc4 (32 stitches)
R16: invdec 1, sc3, invdec 1, sc 15, invdec 1, sc 3, invdec 1, sc 1, invdec 1 (27 stitches)
embroider eyes and attach ears. Note that ears or not visible on my doll until the end, because I was debating whether or not to make them. I think they would attach more easily at this point.
R17: (sc 1, invdec 1) x 4, sc 3, (invdec 1, sc 1) x 4 (19 stitches)
R18: sc 4, invdec 6, sc 3 (13 stitches)
R19: sc 4, invdec 3, sc 3 (10 stitches)
You have now completed the head. embroider mouth, and stuff.
Moving on to the body:
R20: inc all the way around (20 stitches)
R21: sc all the way around (20 stitches)
R22: sc 5, inc, sc 10, inc, sc 3 (22 stitches)
R23-32: sc all the way around (22 stitches)
R33: (sc 1, invdec 1) x3, sc 11, invdec 1 (18 stitches)
R34: invdec 3. This creates the indentation for your doll’s bum.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the body and stitch body shut. You may put a few poly pellets into the bottom of the body to weight it, if you want it to sit up on its own.
Doll Arms (make 2)
Make a magic ring
R1: sc 5 in magic ring
R2: inc 1, sc 1, inc 1, sc 2 (7 stitches)
R3: sc 3, make a 2 double crochet bobble stitch, sc 3 (7 stitches)
This bobble is your doll’s thumb.
R4-14 : sc all the way around (7 stitches), stuffing as you go.
Finish off, leaving a long thread for sewing. Note that the arms are not stuffed. If you want the doll to be pose-able (not recommended if making for a young child, but fine for older children), you may insert a pipe cleaner into the arm – be sure to form the ends into loops to discourage them from poking through.
Doll Legs (make 2)
R1: 2sc in second stitch from chain, 1 sc in next stitch, 3sc in third stitch, 1 sc on other side of the stitch that had 1 sc in original, 1sc in the stitch that the original 2scs from this row were stitched into. (8 stitches)
R2: inc 2, sc 2, inc 2, sc 2 (12 stitches)
R3: inc, sc, inc, sc 3, inc, sc, inc, sc 3 (16 stitches)
R4: sc all the way around (16 stitches)
If you want the doll to have flat feet, cut out a bit of plastic (the kind used for cross stitch works) in the shape of the foot base and insert here. You can also put poly pellets into the feet to weight them, if you like – this would help the doll sit up on its own.
R5: sc 7, invdec 4, sc 1 (12 stitches)
R6: sc 7, invdec 2, sc 1 (10 stitches)
R7: invdec 1, sc 4, invdec, sc 2 (8 stitches)
R8-16: sc all the way round. Finish off.
The feet are stuffed, but the legs are not. As with the arms, you can make the legs pose-able by inserting pipe cleaners, with ends looped into circles to prevent poking through.
Finishing the doll
Sew ears, arms, and legs onto doll. See photo for guidance. weave in all loose ends.
Starting with the skirt:
Chain 24; join with a slip stitch to form a loop.
R1: sc in each stitch all the way round (24 stitches)
R2: chain 1, then dc in each stitch all the way round (24 stitches)
R3: sc all the way round (24 stitches)
R4: (sc 3, 3sc in fourth stitch) x6 (36 stitches)
R5: sc all the way round (36 stitches)
R6: (sc 5, inc 1) x6 (42 stitches)
R7: chain 2, skip one stitch, join with slip stitch to next stitch. Repeat all the way round to create a scalloped edge.
Finish off and weave in ends.
R1: Join at the right side of the front (four stitches out from the front center). sc 8 stitches. Note: If I have understood left-handed crochet correctly, you will want to join at the left side.
R2: ch 2, turn, dc in each stitch (8 stitches)
R3: ch 2, turn, dc in each stitch (8 stitches)
ch 1, turn, sc 2. Repeat until you have a strap long enough to attach to the back of the skirt, crossing the back (there will be an X on the back when both straps are attached). 14 stitches was the best length for me, but this may vary depending how tightly you crochet.
Join with slip stitches to the far side of the back of the skirt.
Start at the opposite side of the dress top, join in corner, chain one, sc 2. Ch 1, turn, sc 2, and repeat the process until done.
The dress should stay in place nicely, while still being fairly easy to take on and off of the doll.
Give your doll to a child, and send them off adventuring!Thank you for sharing!
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